Monday, May 13, 2013

Another check off the Bucket List

Today marks my 597th day in Azerbaijan, which is a little over 85 weeks. With 187 days left to go in my Peace Corps service, I have been thinking a lot lately about my Azerbaijan Bucket List. There are so many parts to this beautiful country that I have yet to explore, and I am making it a personal goal for my last 26+ weeks, to to all the things I've been saying I want to do and see.

On the road from Baku (capital) to Quba (my town) there is a main rest stop where all buses take a break, before continuing on their journeys. I must have stopped here a million times on my way to and from Baku, always absently gazing out the window at the sites going by.

Beş Barmaq
 Besh Barmaq is a natural fortress which separates the Caspian Sea and the plain-like coast with the mountainous region. Beş Barmaq in Azeri translates into The Five Fingers.  It is widely considered to be one of the most famous and spiritual places in the Caucasus Region. Pilgrims and worshipers have climbed it's peaks for centuries, coming from a multitude of cultural backgrounds and languages. Historically people of both Islamic and Animistic (Animism) religious affiliations came here to worship, giving the area an otherworldly quality.

This past weekend, a few of us set out to climb it's peak and take a look back through history. We set out early morning from a neighboring town, Siyəzən and took a Marshrutka to the rest stop. From there, we hiked several hours to the base of Besh Barmaq.

"1st Finger" PCVs (left to right) Steven (Siyezan), Kelsey (Xachmaz), Joel (Qusar) and Corina - Me! (Quba)


We made a few friends along the way...



And stopped to do some car shopping...

 



At the base of the rock mountain, Azeri families take rest before making the pilgrimage to the top. We joined them for a quick refuel, before continuing our ascent.





The stone stairs wind up through the flowery fields, as they climb higher and higher into the bright blue sky. Along the way, there are prayer stops and rest areas.  For myself and my other female friend, we covered our hair out of respect for the cultural traditions.




Many of the women who climb this mountain area, are advanced in years. They flock from regions all across Azerbaijan and Southern Russia to take this spiritual journey. 



Gypsies also frequent the area, begging for change as pilgrims climb up.  They have special prayers they mutter as you walk by, and some "bless" you wish smooth stones.

The steep stairs climb up through an intricate caves and corners, twisting and turning through the mountain side.


At the  top of the mountain, there are several trees. Here, you will see dozens of ribbons and pieces of fabric tied to the branches. Each piece symbolizes a prayer or intention left behind by someone. 




We took a moment to break and enjoy the stunning views of the Caspian Sea below. 


Then began our descent back down the mountain and the very narrow stone stairs.



The hike down was needless to say, a lot easier. :D










Sunday, May 12, 2013

Giorgoba (St. George's Day)

Within Azerbaijan, there are many ethnic minority groups, as well as residents from neighboring countries. In the Northern mountainous city of Qax, there lives a large population of Georgians. Along with Azerbaijan and Armenia, Georgia makes up the Caucasus region of Central Asia/Eastern Europe.



St. George is the patron saint of Georgia. Every year on May 6th (His death) and November 23rd (His Birth), in honor of St. George's Feast Day, Georgians living in Azerbaijan, pilgrimage to an Albanian church that sits at the top of a steep hill. 



 
This year, a few fellow PCV friends and I joined the pilgrimage. Typically people walk up the rocky ascent barefoot, to show respect for the Saint and give penance for their sins.



 
Before climbing, people purchase bundles of 10 home-made, thin, beeswax candles. One bundle costs 1azn.



Along the walk, people light the candles and say prayers, before sticking the candles to the sides of rock mountain.



 
Once the church is reached, at the peak of the hill, people circumnavigate the building 3 times, kissing and praying to each of the 4 corners. 





 People also bring livestock to the church, to bless them before sacrificing it below.






















Upon finishing the 3 circles of the building, next people enter this ancient place of worship. Inside, more candles are lit and prayers and intentions said. 




Upon exiting the church, there is another short ascent to reach a spectacular view of the church and valley below. 



After the pilgrimage is complete, friends and family gather at the base of the hill for music and picnics.